The Journey of a Sapphire

A few months ago I took a short tour of Ratnapura. The capital city of the Sabaragamuwa Province, situated in the district with the same name: a city known as the major gem mining region of Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, a country that is renowned for its long history in the gem trade. Visitors to this Island nation would know it for its scenic destinations, wildlife, religious heritage sites, and cricket. To which the well-established gem trade can also be added. In my short stay, it soon became apparent, that the gem hub of Sri Lanka, comes with a distinct culture.

Sri Lanka is a country with a rich gem mining heritage. A trade and one could say a tradition that goes back over a thousand years. A country renowned for a variety of gemstones, from chrysoberyl garnets, moonstone, peridots, topaz, tourmaline, and even extremely rare precious stones like Alexandrite, However, the country is most famous for its corundum gems, notably rubies and sapphires. Known the world over as Ceylon sapphires, and at the top of the list, we find the blue sapphire.

Gem mining in Sri Lanka, but especially in Ratnapura comes with a distinct style. There are certain methods and an informal set of practices that govern those involved in this trade. The gem trade in this country is not just a business practice for those involved. It has become an important part of their everyday lives. With my experience of working in the gem business, this experience of seeing the gem trade in one of the most famous gem mining spots in the world was an insightful experience. So here’s an overview of the gem mining scene in Sri Lanka. Which I shall describe by following the journey of a sapphire.

Ratnapura - The Sapphire Capital of Sri Lanka

Ratnapura is the heart of the gem industry in Sri Lanka, whose name means “city of gems”: part of the highland complex, where many of the country’s gem deposits are located. It is a place that combines typical Sri Lankan environments like paddy fields, villages, and small towns with varying levels of urbanization. However, what is characteristic about this place is that much of its culture: from the many jewellery shops, the numerous mining practices, to the smaller jewellery dealers, and the many gem-related crafts that mark the towns of the city. Sri Lanka, particular Rantapuara, has, what is known as a “mine to market” industry. Where the entire process, from the discovery of gem deposits, to their mining, cleaning, cutting, polishing and later distribution, including the making and sale of precious jewellery, is covered from end to end.

Sapphires in Sri Lanka are mined from alluvial deposits: loose soil, loose down rocks and clay, that have eroded owing to contact with water, in the course of history. Some of these partly dissolved rocks carry with them certain mineral deposits. Which depending on the structure of their chemical composition, could contain precious stones. Sapphires being one of them: hardened mineral corundum, with traces of aluminium oxide. Since water is a key factor in the breakdown of rocks that contain these mineral deposits, gemstones are naturally found in areas where there’s an abundance of water. Water sources like rivers, streams, and even areas close to paddy fields, tend to be found in water-rich areas.

Sapphires Mining

Once a potential source of gemstones is located, the locals, many of whom are in some way associated with the gem trade, and are very knowledgeable when identifying these sources, get the process started. Unless the gemstones are being directly sourced from rivers: where gem deposits are found beneath the water, trapped within solid clay or small rocks. Which tells you about the abundance of precious stones in this part of the world.

The mining process usually begins with the construction of a makeshift “mine” around the spot. One that is constructed almost entirely by hand with the local environment proving the tools and construction materials. Which extends from a few meters to almost 50. Some of them extend vertically across, underground. Once the mine is made, the workers bore down into it. With the main task being to remove the excess water inside. An arduous process. As workers, most of the locals from the area, take turns in pumping out the water. Once the right level is reached, the gravel, mixed with water is sluiced away with the aid of specially made baskets, as the top layer of soil and water washes away, revelling the, if lucky, a collection of precious stones, usually mixed or attached rock segments.

A Carefully Monitored Process

This is a tough process, requiring considerable effort on part of the workers. However, the workers despite the challenge, enjoy the process. They are compensated and basic necessities like food and time for rest are provided. It is important to note that these mines are not the extensive mining projects one finds in places like Canada and Australia. Such as the fracking energy projects or the diamond mines. Which bore down for hundreds of meters, disrupting tons of soil and, with considerable effects on the natural environment. In Sri Lanka, sapphire mining is a very local, communal and pro-environmental process. And mining practices are carefully regulated by the National Gem and Jewelry Authority (NGJA). As noted, since many of these gem deposits are located near paddy fields and the villages that are close to them, the focus on protecting the environment is significant.

Cutting Sapphire Gemstones

Until now, what we have seen is the selection of precious stones. Which usually come in a variety of colours. Contrary to what people may think, sapphires come in a number of colours: besides the popular blue, there are pink, yellow and even white sapphires. Once the miners identify the right stones, these are sent to the respective gem-cutting experts. Here the process may differ from the gem merchant. Whilst modern cutting techniques are increasingly in use, Sri Lanka’s gem industry still maintains traditional cutting and curing methods.

Heat treatment of sapphires

Sapphires in Sri Lanka are often subjected to a certain kind of heat treatment. One that is done to increase the quality and colour of the stone. This process is a totally legitimate way of treating precious stones. Sapphires are precious stones that come with a high degree of hardness, scoring 9 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness. Curing, in addition to improving the colour of the stone, is also intended to make the sapphire more durable. This process of heat treatment increases the quality of the stone, by removing impurities and improving its clarity. Further, the type of curing differs from country to country. In Sri Lanka gemstones are treated at higher temperatures, than in gem exporting nations like Mozambique. The aim of curing is also to improve the reflective quality of the stones, such as causing re-crystallization of silk inclusions. However, the curing techniques do not involve the addition of other materials to artificially change their colour. These often illegal methods should not be confused with heat-treated sapphires.

Gemstone Cutting Process

The gem industry is known for having a number of lapidary methods at its disposal. The great skill of local gem cutters, with their hand-powered tools, who cut and shape the sapphires into the desired shape is knowledgeable in most. Grinding of the stone is a practice which involves the use of silicon carbide wheels to shape gemstones to a desired rough form (pre-forming). The cutting also involves the removal of debris that could be deeply embedded within the gemstone. Which is managed by the use of a select diamond or silicon carbide.

 _{A yellow sapphire gemstone after the initial preparation for cutting}

A key part of this process is the orientation of the sapphire. As gem experts would understand, sapphires like other gemstones come with a “good side”: where the glow of the stone is most prominent; thus cuts to the stone, where the pavilion is cut to ensure greater reflection, are carried out in other, less prominent sides. Some high-end customers actually prefer traditional hand-cut gemstones, especially larger ones.

This golden yellow sapphire is now available for you to purchase or you can get an engagement ring made with it.

 _{The Sapphire after the first round of shaping}

However, the demand for precious cut precious stones, a notable feature in diamond cutting, has affected the gem industry here as well. As jewellers, who service international markets, in Australia, America, Europe and increasingly China, are rapidly adopting advanced cutting technologies. That with aid of special software, are made according to fixed specifications, that shape and refine the select sapphire and other precious stones to the right symmetry, proportion and radiance.

_{The quality of the cut depends on the skills of the gem cutter}

Whilst polishing of the stone is usually carried out by those involved in the cutting of the stone. However, when the sapphires are shipped off to jewellery dealers, many of whom are locally based in Ratnapura, the sapphire is put through another round of additional care by the jewellers as well. Sanding is another method for improving the external quality of the stone, which removes smaller external scratches more effectively. The polishing of the stone involves a variety of processes. With a number of agents: such as metals, minerals and oxides, and polishing tools, such as lucite laps, made with special minerals, such as zinc, being used to increase shine, a reflection of the sapphire. As the reader may know, the process of going from a stone that is sourced from mine to the glittering stone on your engagement ring, for example, is not a simple process.

 _{The final look of the finished Yellow Sapphire Gemstone}

Sapphire Jewellery

No surprises here. The next key destination for the cut, cured, polished Ceylon Sapphire is the jeweller. The gem mining industry is well integrated with the jewellery industry in this nation. However, the jewellery trade in Sri Lanka also takes place in more informal ways. Whilst location-based jewellers, sell both precious stones and designed jewellery. Smaller gem traders, with mining operations, also get involved in the sale of jewellery, as some also own their own jewellery shops, or act as agents to a trusted jeweller in the area.

When it comes to jewellery making, engagement rings tend to be a major destination for sapphires. The famous blue sapphire engagement ring is one such example. However, sapphires like all gemstones see a variety of uses. From necklaces, pendants, earrings and other special gift items. A key point when it comes to sapphire jewellery making is customization. No in-store jewellery is ever tailor-made to fit the customer who walks in looking to find a great sapphire engagement ring. Getting the right jewellery involves a process of selection, measurement, and careful design. If you have been out jewellery shopping you would know that the process from seeking a certain type of jewellery, like an engagement ring, to picking the right stone: from the colour, type, size etc. The metal of choice, other accents etc. And importantly the sizing (which many often get wrong), will take time.

This is where finding the right sapphire jeweller is key. The gemstone, whilst polished and glittering is not yet an end product. Unless you are looking for the precious stone alone. The process that takes you from your select sapphire to its chosen location: the right piece of jewellery is another tale. For now, I hope you have some idea of how this process, which starts from the mining of the stone, it's cleaning, cutting, polishing and later design.