Anatomy of an Engagement Ring: Key Components Explained

Buying an engagement ring is a serious and personal decision. In addition to the emotional importance that is attached to it, the factors of cost, endurance and maintenance of the ring are key factors one must consider before making this purchasing decision. Into this mix, enters the growing popularity of custom-made engagement rings. Rings that incorporate degrees of personalisation, as customers wish to make their choice of fine jewellery, like engagement rings, their own. Adding their own touch, via slight or even major modifications to the ring’s design, have become the norm when it comes to the purchasing decision. Hence customers require and often seek specific knowledge when it comes to the parts, the structure of a ring. As familiarity with the key components of the ring will aid potential customers to make more informed decisions. Here we will provide a general outline of the key components of an engagement ring, along with its two main categories: gemstones and metals. Whilst providing some clues on how the familiarity of these parts can aid you in personalising your engagement ring.

The Main Components of an Engagement Ring

Engagements rings are fine jewellery that requires a great degree of craftsmanship. The process of making engagement rings involves the integration of a number of key parts, that come together under careful oversight, and give engagement rings their final form. These components are known by their industry terms which are somewhat technical and may sound confusing to the average engagement ring seeker. So when it comes to engagement rings, where you the customer, would like to be actively involved in more parts of the ring making process, knowledge of some of the key terms that are involved in this process is important. So when changes, modifications, and even major additions are needed, your familiarity with ‘ring terminology’ is bound to help you as you make your way through this process. Here are the key parts of an Engagement Ring that you need to keep in mind

The Gemstone(s)

When it comes to fine jewellery, the two main elements are gemstones and precious metals. Once you have settled on a ring design and prior to that budget, in engagement rings, the gemstone tends to be the main concern. Which usually takes the form of diamonds, or sapphire gemstones, along with rubies and emeralds. It is important to keep in mind that the size, shape, placement and even the cut of the gemstone will largely depend on the type of engagement ring design you have chosen. Engagement rings tend to vary depending on the type of gemstone they hold. In terms of ring design, the most popular variants are the Solitaire, Halo and Three Stone engagement rings. When it comes to the shape of the gemstone, this would refer to the cut of the gemstone: the most notable being the Princess, Round, and Cushion Cut engagement rings. So the cut of the gemstone in question, in turn, will affect the type of engagement ring design, though not always. Now the subject of ring designs in relation to gemstone size and placements, and gemstone cuts are expansive areas, which required dedicated attention. Here will hone in on the specific features of gemstones in relation to their size and placement, which will help you make a better decision in choosing/making an engagement ring with the right gemstone size and placement.

Centre Stone

The most significant aspect of the engagement ring is the gemstone, which is invariably the centre stone. Virtually all engagement rings have a centre stone: which is usually the largest gemstone in the ring and naturally the most prominent. Whist the cut and shape of the gemstone will vary, any changes or modifications made to this gemstone will be most visible on the surface of the ring. Depending on the ring type, the centre stone will be more or less prominent, however, its significance does not lessen no matter the ring type.

Accent Stones

Accent stones generally refer to any gemstone on an engagement ring that is not the centre stone. Accent stones, as they imply, are there to compliment the beauty and glow of the centre stone, and are often very small in size. Over time with the rise in popularity of engagement rings that feature two or more stones, notably those that are comparable in size to the centre stone. This has led to accent stones being referred to as gemstones that are similar in size to the centre stone, which is known by a different name (side stones). This confusion aside, accent stones when understood the right way tend to be very small in size, and at times, depending on the ring may refer to cheaper gemstones simulants or smaller diamonds.

Side Stones

This is a newer term, that gets confused accent stones. Side stones, however, refer to gemstones that are not the centre stone but are larger in size than accent stones. So the key point to keep in mind is that the side stone generally refers to gemstones that are comparable in size to the centre stone, and is larger than the much smaller gemstones that are placed on the ring. Notable here are three stone engagement rings, where the side stones are only marginally smaller than the centre stone.

The Band

The metal band is the next key part of the engagement ring. Metal bands are made from precious metals. The most popular being gold, sterling silver, and platinum. With the newer additions of palladium and rhodium entering the mix in recent times. Here will focus on the key parts of the engagement ring, irrespective of the metal type. A knowledge of these important parts when it comes to the process of making a custom-designed ring is key. As the addition of customisation, adjustments to the size of the ring, and importantly the comfort of the ring in the long term require greater attention.

Head

Is the part of the ring that holds the stone. Usually the centre stone. The gemstone in most conventional engagement ring styles is mounted on sub-components that form part of the head, which may vary depending on the type or style of the ring. Notable here are the prongs and bezels. The ‘head’ of the engagement ring can be seen as a collective term referring to whatever the structure that is holding the top where the gemstone is placed.

Prong

A component of the engagement ring’s head, whose presence depends on the ring style. It is the structure that holds the gemstone. Prongs feature most prominently in engagement rings that come with Cathedral settings. Whilst the prong is not a universal feature in all engagement rings, certain designs, such as tension setting engagement rings adopt a different structure.

Gallery

The gallery is the area that lies in between the centre stone and above the shank of the engagement ring. This area is usually exploited by ring designers to include additional designs: notable being metallic stems that connect to the prongs upon which the centre stone is mounted on. For those making a custom engagement ring, the gallery of the engagement is a good place to incorporate some personal additions.

Bridge

This is the area underneath the head of the ring that rests on the wearer's finger. This too is a spot that can be used to add any personal engraving and other secretive additions, if you are that type. The bridge is of the ring needs to be highly comfortable for the wearer, as it upholds the shank of the ring, so its ‘feel’ on your ring finger needs to be optimal. 

Shank 

The shank of the ring refers to the lower part of the band metal band. This is the area that wraps around your ring finger. Getting the shank right is key when it comes to sizing, and in case of after purchase adjustments, resizing. When making a custom engagement ring, invest your time in finding a jeweller who is able to craft a ring shank that fits perfectly around your ring finger and one that is comfortable to wear in the long run. For design additions, customers who want something out of the ordinary, can look for a split shank design: where the metal band splits in two around the middle of the shank and then connects with the head of the ring. Split band rings are increasingly popular for those seeking an unconventional look.

Hallmark

Hallmarks are special engravings that are applied by the ring maker, on the inside of the shank that touches your finger: the information included involves technical information on the ring’s metal character (18K, 14K karat), special marking of the manufacturer, or, upon request by the customer, information that is important to you.

Miligrain

Miligrain is an artistic modification that is applied to the edge of the band of the engagement ring. Also known as embellishments, these are intricate additions and require great care and craftsmanship. These additions must be applied carefully, and often require a dedicated request, as this is not a common addition in most engagement ring designs. However, miligrain tend to be a feature of vintage style engagement rings.

Filigree

The term filigree comes from the artistic designs found in ornamental work, and in engagement rings, and is often associated with vintage or antique style engagement rings. Certain engagement rings tend to incorporate the filigree design more prominently into the ring, notable here are our vintage style rings, like the highly popular Country Road engagement rings. However, if you are creating your custom engagement ring, the filigree design can be incorporated as an addition. So a ring with a more modern style can be made to suit your taste, with a filigree style.

In Conclusion

The parts and components of an engagement ring whilst fixed in number will vary depending on the ring type: in terms of design and gemstone placement. Hence a basic grasp of the elements and what changes to these may mean to the overall character of the ring is important to keep in mind when seeking your engagement ring. And depending on the ring design in question, or one that you have in mind in the case of custom engagement rings, your ability to make changes to its anatomy will vary accordingly.