Platinum, Palladium and White Gold: Compared and Contrasted

When one enters the world of fine jewellery there are basically two key elements one needs to consider: gemstones, and precious metals. In this post, we will go deep into the latter, and later understand their significance in relation to the other. Precious metals are an integral part of any jewellery item: the idea of associating a high value with jewellery is primarily determined by the type of metal that is in use. Since a gemstone, no matter how valuable, needs to be placed within a certain setting, from which its beauty is shown and communicated. Hence in this equation, the nature of the metal of choice is key.

For instance, no one thinks of iron, steel or bronze as metals that are fit for jewellery. Have you ever wondered why? For starters, precious metals are valued for a number of select qualities. Factors that make them stand out from other metal types: such as their colour, glow, the rarity of the substance and the market price it commands. The elements which determine the value of precious metals, like gold, are a broad subject. Here our focus is on ‘White’ metals’: Platinum, Palladium and White Gold. It is important to note that none of these metals are actually “white” in colour, as each of these white metal variants contains shades that tilt them closer or further away from an ideal white shade. In addition to the variety of shades that distinguish these white metal types, there are other qualities that separate one from the other, which can be viewed as pros or cons. Factors that are likely to affect your decision in picking the right precious metal of choice for a wedding or engagement ring. Or if you are in the market for something else, or if your intention is to just learn more about them, we have most things covered in this instance.

White Gold

So let’s start with the big one on the list: gold. Gold has for a very long time been the top choice of metal for fine jewellery. From ancient times to the present day gold has been valued for a number of key reasons: From its rarity, the complex processes that go into making gold, and the work that is undertaken to shape this relatively soft metal to be fit for jewellery making; and to the cost that arises in safeguarding them. As gold, like other precious stones and metals, also come with a security cost. A problem that has affected everyone involved with them, from the kings of old with their vast treasure troves; to the modern citizen and their personal jewellery collection. Our focus here is specifically on the white variant. Before learning about the pros and cons of this metal type, we need to understand what makes white gold a distinct variant in the gold metal range.

How White Gold is Made?

Gold in its natural state is effectively unusable when it comes to fine jewellery. A point which was well understood since ancient times. In more recent times (the past few hundred years) the advances in material sciences have led to steady improvements in metallurgy, which has enabled the development of precious metal variants like white gold. The origins of white gold are somewhat mysterious, for depending on the variety of accounts, white gold was first developed by two German alchemists Johann Friedrich Bottger and Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus in the 1700s. Though this account, as the latter research has proved, dealt with the development of porcelain. Later on, white gold was confused with platinum deposits that were being unearthed for the first time around the world.

The official development of white gold goes back to the start of the 20th century, when the Belais brothers, in 1920, when researching an alternative for platinum developed this metal variant, by combining gold, nickel, and zinc. However, according to certain other accounts, the white variant of the precious metal resulted from the works of the German chemist Karl Richter, who patented a version of white gold by combining the metals gold, nickel, and palladium. The debate on the actual origins of white gold aside, the basic formula of white gold consists, specifically the 18K variant, which is also the most popular one, is a combination that includes 75 per cent gold with varying levels of copper, zinc, and often a larger percentage of nickel. Sometimes white gold is made using 75 per cent pure gold, with smaller levels of silver and even titanium.

Pros of White Gold

• Historically white gold has been cheaper than platinum. Though the price of gold has been rising steadily in recent times.

• A great variety of white shades available within this range, depending on its alloy mix. Along with different carats, and hence affecting the quality and price.

• White gold is quite resistant to rust and corrosion.

Cons of White Gold

• White gold is not exactly white. The colour tone depends on its alloy composition.

• The ‘white’ in white may fade over time.

• This precious metal is often rhodium-plated, which wear off over time.

• Scratches more than easily platinum and palladium

• The addition of silver to the alloy will make the white gold softer than usual.

The Role of Rhodium Plating

Rhodium is a precious metal in its own right and a member of the platinum family on the periodic table of elements. Thus this is often used by white gold jewellery makers, where the addition of rhodium to the metal gives the white gold alloy a brighter white tone. The effects of this addition are temporary, as this external layer wears off. Thus the rhodium plating tends to require reapplication in a year or two. Though the frequency of these platings can vary depending on the user, and their lifestyle. At this point it is worth looking at some of the characteristics of Rhodium:

Characteristics of Rhodium:

• Carries a lustrous silvery-white tone, which enhances the colour of the plated metal.

• High melting point and has a lower density than platinum.

• High resistance to environmental effects: air, water (2).

Platinum

When one speaks of white metals it is impossible to not engage what is arguably the most important and identifiable white metal type: platinum. Long been considered the undisputed top and priciest choice in the market for precious metals, platinum of late, has come under serious challenge from the rise in popularity of gold in the market for precious metals: With the latter’s steady increase in prices-much of it determined by industrial demand and wider economic factors-white gold’s ascent has in many ways reinforced the value of platinum with strong competition. Platinum is among the naturally white metals. So unlike white gold, its colour is not the result of alloying. Platinum is the most durable metals, and also among the heaviest. Hence platinum has been the metal of choice for those who seek, for example, an engagement ring that does not wear out, and only requires periodic maintenance.

Pros of Platinum

• Extremely durable. Suitable for those seeking a low maintenance option.

• The ‘whitest’ of the white metal variants. Platinum’s white carries a distinct tone.

• A pure white metal choice for fine jewellery in contrast to the alloy-based options.

Cons of Platinum

• Could develop a patina (a slight shade that covers the surface of the metal) over time. Which might be viewed as a form of discolouration. Can be solved at home or with professional aid.

• Generally the most expensive white metal variant.

• Heaviest of the metal types. (Though this could be seen as an advantage).

• Softer than white gold and is easily scratched. But these external blemishes are not permanent.

Palladium

One of the world's rarest metals, palladium makes for a special wedding band, one that is high in quality and in relation to the prices of white gold and platinum, it is cheaper. Palladium is known to be hypoallergenic in its character: thus it is a good metal of choice for those who suffer from metal allergies. Palladium, like platinum, is a precious metal with a high level of purity: scoring around 95 per cent in metal purity levels. Interestingly, palladium is a part of the same metal family as platinum (known as the platinum group of metals). Which have a wide variety of industrial use. And in terms of human use, pallidum is up there in terms of health and safety, as it is even used in dentistry. Though palladium metals should not be confused with palladium compounds which are a different matter(1). In case the reader is confused with respect to the value of this metal type: in 2010 palladium was given the status as a precious metal. Hence jewellery that passes a certain palladium threshold is required to be earmarked as precious metals(3).

Pros of Palladium

• A lightweight option in, as it is less dense than gold or platinum.

• More scratch resistant than white gold or even platinum.

• A healthy option: as it low in toxicity.

• Does not require rhodium plating.

• A budget-friendly option for those in the market for white metals.

Cons of Palladium

• Interestingly, it is rarer than platinum or white gold

• A new entrant to the jewellery market. Which may pose problems for jewellers who are new to working with it.

• Some difficulty in getting hold of palladium jewellery. As palladium is rarer than platinum or gold.

What is the Best Precious Metal Type for You?

It all depends. As the choice of precious metal, white or otherwise, comes down to a number of factors. Factors that are not only limited to the metal of choice but also the type, colour, carat of the gemstone. And in the case of fine jewellery items like engagement rings, in addition to the cost factor, the reasons for choosing a specific metal type, come down to factors that go beyond the obvious. The person may just like the idea of a white gold ring with rhodium plating, rather than a white gold ring with no plating; and that is what makes the difference. As a start, if you have settled on a budget, ensure that your choice of precious metal is studied in relations to the gemstone of your liking and the ring design. For once you get these locked down, then the metal of choice becomes straightforward.

References

https://www.lenntech.com/periodic/elements/pd.htm

https://www.lenntech.com/periodic/elements/rh.htm

https://theassayoffice.com/palladium_baoexpert