White Gold vs Platinum - How to make your Choice?

White gold or platinum, which ought to be the precious metal of choice for you? White gold and platinum are top metal types when it comes to the making of fine jewellery, and their top position is due to a number of key attributes that they possess, that sets them apart from other alternatives. To opt for white gold or platinum is not as simple as picking one metal over the other owing to the advantageous features present in one and not in the type. In practice, however, the features that set apart the two metals and that which makes them worthy candidates often overlap. Hence requiring a careful study of their differences. Here we will outline the strengths and weaknesses of both popular metals, and provide information that will help you decide in making the right choice between white gold and platinum.

(Picture of Girl Thinking- With white gold and platinum bars on the Top)

Affordability: What Metal is the more Cost-Effective Option?

In deciding between white gold and platinum, for the making of jewellery items like engagement rings and necklaces, the price is a key factor. When it comes to choosing between the two, white gold is generally the cheaper option. So a quick answer to the question of affordability, white gold fine jewellery is the way to go. As for the reasons why white gold is the cheaper option, this is not always well known. The competition between white gold and platinum with respect to price is quite interesting. The reason why historically platinum has been the pricier option is a result of its greater rarity of this metal type. In recent decades gold has started to gain ground on the more prestigious metal of choice, and at certain times has started to match and even surpass the value of platinum when it comes to market prices, and later in the making of fine jewellery. This is important to understand, since in fine jewellery, besides gemstones, the key determinant of the final cost of fine jewellery that you choose will be the precious metal that is used to make it. Here we will outline the cost factor as it relates to platinum and white gold, in relation to their specific alloy character. For the devil, as usual, is in the details.

(Graphic on the prices of metals)

Why Platinum is (Generally) the More Expensive Option in Jewellery

Platinum higher market price historically has been driven by the relative rarity of this precious metal, which comes under the platinum group of metals. All of which are rare at varying levels in contrast to gold. Platinum proper (Pt), is an immensely rare metal type that is mined only from a handful of countries, with South Africa and Russia the great diamond producers leading the way. Gold is relatively more abundant in terms of supply, as the tonnage of platinum that is mined each year is smaller. For example for the year 2020, the total platinum mined for the year was 170 metric tons. Gold in contrast for the same year had a total global output of 3200 metric tons. However, gold prices have increased considerably over the past few decades, and in recent times have surpassed that of platinum owing to market conditions. However, the reason why platinum jewellery often surpasses that of white gold in price, is that platinum is a denser metal, and heavier. This means in the making fine jewellery, two items (e.g. engagement rings), of equal in volume, and size; the platinum variant will require a higher level of platinum metal in contrast to that of white gold. Further, platinum that is used in the making of fine jewellery tends to be of a higher level of purity, around 95 per cent (Pt 950). This makes it the pricier, owing to the greater level of purity, as white gold in the alloy form, as we shall see, contains a higher percentage of cheaper alloys. Whereas platinum jewellery, contain a higher platinum percentage for the same volume.

(Picture of a white gold and platinum wedding)

White Gold the Affordable Metal Choice for Jewellery

Gold despite playing second fiddle to the leadership that platinum has held in the market for fine jewellery over the years has closed the gap and now surpasses it in market prices. As the price of precious metals is determined the role of demand and supply forces. The price of white gold whilst historically lower has fluctuated over the years, and in recent times surpasses that of gold. As experts in the field know, the price differential between gold and platinum is determined by external market conditions, with gold viewed as a hedge in times of economic downturns, with the price and value of gold being determined by its position as a source of security. Platinum on the other hand tends to go in the opposite direction, with stronger industrial demand powering the higher market value of platinum, but this means that its price rests on the health of the economy. In the making of fine jewellery, gold is more affordable owing to the fact that in fine jewellery gold is never used in the pure (24K) form. This brings us to the study of gold alloys, and the variants that are found in this category. So when it comes to choosing between white gold and platinum context is king. Whilst platinum is likely to be a more expensive option when it comes to fine jewellery when it comes to long term use, and the cost of maintenance, it might be a better choice than white gold.

(Image of Platinum Ring and White Gold Ring)

Maintenance: Which Metal is Better in the Long Run

When it comes to jewellery maintenance, platinum, despite being less scratch resistant metal than white gold, in the long term is a better option. Owing to the fact that platinum is able to ‘heal’ from scratches and cuts better, owing to its ability to develop a patina finish: which is a thin oxidised coating on its surface. Making things more interesting, one must understand that in jewellery making toughness is only one factor, despite being the less malleable metal, which makes it harder to shape into desired forms, platinum can withstand impacts better than gold. This is one of the key reasons driving platinum’s popularity, in addition to cost and perceived value; as it is less likely to break upon impact. Hence platinum has established itself as a top precious choice owing to its ability to last for the long term, with minimal damage A related factor, in this equation is the density of the metal. Platinum is known to be around 20 per cent denser than white gold, which makes it heavier on the hand, and gives a sense of strength, which some may prefer. However, its key strength lies in the patina finish it develops in response to scratches.

Patina Finish and White Gold Rhodium Plating

Patina is a type of oxidization that develops on the surface of the metal, that occurs over time due to the exposure of the metal to the elements. Platinum is arguably the best known for this feature. Platinum jewellery, usually over the course of a year or so, tend to develop a thin finish on their surface. This new layer come at the cost of the natural sheen found in the precious metal, and this process of patina development is accelerated by cuts and scratches. This is where platinum carries a key advantage. For, unlike gold, when platinum is scratched it develops a patina on the areas where the dent takes place. The patina in platinum metal is like a defence mechanism that develops over the surface, as the metal in an area that is scratched is moved to another area on the surface. Platinum despite scratching more quickly, tends to shift the affected area to another part of the surface of the metal. Which works into the patina finish. Which requires a polishing finish to return it to its former lustre.

Gold’s response to this is, well it comes from the jeweller. Makers of fine jewellery know that gold struggles to compete in the long resistance to wear and tear department. As gold, tends to wear away, as it is scratched, and tends to lose some of the metal along with it. This means there is a potential higher cost in the long term, in case of more serious damage. Where the white gold jewel will lose its volume in areas where there is constant exposure to contact. To protect its surface in the long run, jewellers apply rhodium coating to white gold jewellery. Rhodium (Rh) is a silvery-white metal, that is interestingly part of the platinum group of metals. By coating gold with rhodium it adds a protective sheen, and it also gives the metal a lighter colour. However, this coating needs to be applied every 3-4 years.

Which Metal Has Best Colour: White Gold or Platinum?

The main distinguishing physical characteristic between gold and platinum is colour. Whilst both metals claim to be ‘white’ in character. Only platinum’s colour is a function of its natural metallic character. Gold on the other hand is a naturally yellow metal, that is alloyed with various other metals to produce the desired effect. From a shift in colour (white or rose gold) to varying levels of purity: 18K vs 14K option. If you want a yellow ring, then gold (also termed yellow gold) is the best option. However, if you want a white ring, you can opt for platinum or white gold. White gold rings are composed of gold, alloys, and a rhodium plating which gives it a white look that’s very similar to platinum. 14k white gold and 14k yellow gold have the same gold content and purity (58.5% gold), but the alloys in white gold (and the rhodium plating) make it appear white, while the alloys in yellow gold do not.

(Image of Platinum Ring and 18K White Gold Ring)

18K White Gold vs Platinum

The formula for white gold alloy has varied over the years and generally depends on the jeweller or the metal or mining company. This means there is no one single type of white gold, which becomes important when it comes to questions on metal durability, and endurance etc. And other qualities that people seek in their choice of metals in fine jewellery. The making of white gold involves the addition of nickel and zinc. In the 18K white gold variant, the per cent of the alloy is around 25 per cent, with pure gold taking up the remaining 75 per cent. Which makes it the more expensive option, and has a richer yellowish tone. In contrast to platinum, 18K is closer in terms of price but still cheaper.

(Image of Platinum Ring and 14K White Gold Ring)

14K White Gold vs Platinum

14K Gold is a cheaper variant in the white gold alloys, owing to the higher percentage of other metals. 14K gold contains around 58 per cent pure gold, with the rest being a variety of other metals. Owing to the lower gold content, 14K gold has a lighter tone and is more closer to platinum in terms of colour. So it is a good option for those seeking a precious metal choice that can match the tone of its more expensive option, and it is much lower price in contrast to platinum makes it a solid choice.

(Image of White Gold Engagement Ring and Platinum Engagement Ring with the image of the hourglass)

Which is the More Durable Metal: White Gold or Platinum?

When it comes to choosing a top precious metal its strength and its ability to withstand impacts, scratches, and endure other adverse effects over the long term is a key factor in making the purchasing decision. When it comes to choosing between white gold and platinum on durability, the equation is a bit more tricky. Whilst platinum has built up a reputation as being the more durable option, white gold has some plus points when it comes to the area of scratch resistance. Things become more interesting when one considers the alloy character of the metal. As white gold jewellery that comes in the 18K and 14K variants contrast differently with platinum in terms of durability.

(Close up Images of 18K vs 14K Rings- Side Angle)

18K vs 14K White Gold

The hardness of gold is a function of its alloy character. The addition of alloys like nickel, copper, and sometimes even silver helps make the metal harder. When it comes to the types of gold, in addition to the distinct type of hues (white or rose gold), a key differentiator is the level purity of the metal. 18K gold contains a higher gold percentage, in contrast to 14K which has a higher alloy content. When it comes to metal durability, the 14K option would be the more durable choice. As the alloys add greater strength to white gold jewellery, making it resistant to external effects; since gold in its natural state is much softer, making it unsuitable for hard use.

(Close up Images of 18K, 14K and Platinum Rings- Side Angle)

Durability and Malleability in 18K, 14K Gold and Platinum

The durability of the precious metal measures its ability to withstand shocks that cause it to chip or even potentially break, and it is here platinum takes the lead. However when it comes to a certain metal’s ability to withstand cut and scratches in everyday use, white gold actually beats out the tougher platinum, owing to the fact that is the harder metal. Platinum as the pure alloy is also the softer metal that is more vulnerable to scratches more easily than its main metal competitor, white gold. Gold gains strength from the various alloys that are included in it. Gold also is a more malleable metal, making it easier to work within making specified shapes. This is why not all jewellers specialise in platinum jewellery and is often cheaper to make. So white gold might be a better option if you are into an active lifestyle, and where constant maintenance may prove to be a headache.

(Images of a white gold bracelet & platinum bracelet on hand- Side by side)

Metal Purity and Hypoallergenic Character of White Gold and Platinum

A key factor consider when buying your precious jewellery is the likelihood your choice could trigger an allergic reaction or cause some other types of irritation on your skin. Hypoallergenic metals are those which are less or potentially unlikely to cause irritations to your skin or decrease the chance of experiencing an allergic reaction. This potential essentially comes down to the type of metal in question. With certain metals like cobalt, nickel being the prime candidate. The problem when it comes to fine jewellery is that most metals in their final character are alloys, which increases the chances of them containing traces of these allergy-causing metals. Since platinum scores 90-95 per cent in terms of purity of the metal, this makes it the true hypoallergenic metal for you to choose. If your skin is sensitive, or if you have a history of allergies to metals and jewellery types, white gold may not be the best choice for you, and platinum rings with their greater purity is a safer option.

(Image: White Gold Necklace and Platinum Necklace- Side by side)

Gold Engagement Rings vs Platinum Engagement Rings: Making the Right Choice

When it comes to fine jewellery, there are a few that top the position of a precious engagement ring. Find out how these metals match up:

In Conclusion

Choosing between white gold and platinum is not exactly an age-old question, since platinum’s entry into the fine jewellery market was a more recent addition. Whilst platinum’s use in the fine jewellery industry actually goes back hundreds of years (around 1870s), with its historical origins going all the way back to the ancient Egyptians. When it comes to the adoption of platinum as a competitor in the fine jewellery market to challenge the dominance of gold, this scenario did not arise until the emergence of the white gold alloy. The emergence of white gold as a popular metal in the fine jewellery industry also goes back hundreds of years (the part of 1700s). To the alchemist era, in Germany. However, its adoption as a viable competitor to platinum started in the early part of the 20th century, in the 1920s when pure gold was combined with various levels of copper, zinc and nickel. Today gold still reigns supreme, at its strength can be attributed to the immense success of white gold. White gold, either in the 18K, or 14K variants have to dominate the arena for fine jewellery, particularly in wedding jewellery, notably engagement rings. Whilst the competition between the two precious metals will continue, white gold is set to remain as the affordable fine jewellery option with platinum being the premium one.