Precious Metals Education: Overview

When it comes to fine jewellery there are two key elements: gemstones and metals. A lot of attention is naturally directed towards the gemstones since this is the factor that determines the perceived value and the final price of the jewel. As important as gemstones are, and the need to understand their character, value etc. When it comes to the purchasing decision, a solid understanding of the precious metals that constitute the base of the jewellery is important. Metals form part of the key design element that gives fine jewellery its structure, style and character. When it comes to the study of metals that are used in the making of fine jewellery, the first question that comes to mind is why are certain metals, or metal alloys used in the making of fine jewellery, and not others? We are here to make things clear.

Why Certain Metals are used in Jewellery Making?

Precious jewellery making is a complex process that involves a number of elements. Since fine jewellery is characterised by a high price point, one that is determined primarily by their distinct designs, craftsmanship and importantly the value of the gemstones that are used. To supplement the qualities associated with other key elements of precious jewellery, the metals that are chosen for this process exhibit certain common characteristics. Notably

Rarity

Arguably the most significant factor that determines the value of fine jewellery is the rarity of the elements that go into them. Since precious stones are valued for their rarity, top gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, being deemed to be extremely valuable, owing to the difficulty in sourcing them. In addition to finding them, there is an elongated process that gemstones must undergo before they become jewellery quality. Precious metals also contain parallel features: in terms of rarity, gold as a precious metal is determined by its lack of abundance. If one thinks of the ‘gold rush', a number of which have taken place throughout history is an indication. Gold is expensive since it is not as abundant as iron, or nickel or other metals. Its relative rarity in addition to the complex mining and refining processes, the latter which involves the extraction of impurities, which further separates into varying sub-levels of purification, and getting into the percentage of pure gold (100.00 purity) being the main aim. To make gold even purer, refined gold is further subjected to processes like the Wohlwill process: Where through a process known as electrolysis, which involves the use of various types of chemicals, and electric currents to increase the purity of the metal.

Durability

A key quality when it comes to metals is their durable character. Which comes down to the metal’s hardness and endurance. Features that vary depending on the metal in question. In addition to metals are graded according to their ability to withstand heat, the ability to resist scratches, or to be able to ‘recover’ from them. Notable here are metals like tungsten, which are among the most resistant to scratches; or metals like titanium which are highly resistant to heat. When it comes to fine jewellery, in addition to these factors, there are other important elements: For durability whilst significant, in fine jewellery items, needs to be matched with other key qualities like the glow, colour, the lack or the absence of toxicity, and its malleability: known as ductility in the world of metals. Which is the ability of metals to be shaped into the desired shape. Since fine jewellery making involves a delicate process of cutting and shaping, the ability to craft such jewels into a variety of shapes, whilst maintaining a degree of hardness of the metal and comfort for the wearer is key. Gold here is the most dominant metal type, as it exhibits qualities that rank high in terms of significant variables. However, gold that is used in fine jewellery making, is not in its pure form. As pure gold is too soft, it is often combined with other metals to increase its hardness. It is important to note gold is not the only precious metal that is used in alloy form.

Reflectivity

Reflectivity is an interesting concept as it relates to, as the term implies, the ability of the metal in question to reflect light. The ability of metals to reflect light varies, despite metals in principle having a high capacity to interact with light, owing to their low refractive character. When it comes to precious metals, the level of reflectivity varies from one metal to another, which depend on the manner in which the metal in question interacts with the kind of wavelengths of the light present. Hence the level, and kind of reflectivity will depend on the metal in question, which in turn will affect the visible colour of the metal in question. Silver, for example, may appear colourless when it is subjected to white light, owing to its high reflectivity in the visible light spectrum.

The Most Popular Metal Types

When it comes to fine jewellery making there are a number of popular metal variants that dominate the market, among the most notable are gold, silver and platinum. And for a time bronze was considered a precious metal, but this was due to the lack of malleable metal alternatives, and the relative rarity of gold and silver. In ancient times the value of the metal was often viewed in relation to the design, and craftsmanship of the jewel, item etc. Here we will provide a general overview of the top metal types in the market for fine jewellery today.

Gold

Gold as a precious metal needs little introduction. Gold’s popularity whilst well known in the world of fine jewellery has also a considerable reputation in the world of industry. A key component in the world of industrials, it is known as a commodity: a high demand resource that is traded across markets. The value of gold is most notable in the world of fine jewellery, and with good reason. Since this is the introductory section for Metals Education, we will keep things short here. When it comes to gold is that it is rare, supple, attractive, comes in a variety of colours (in alloy form). And is always in high demand. The distinct gold alloy variants used in the world of jewellery: 18K, 14K are the most notable.

Silver

Silver is arguably the next best metal alternative when it comes to fine jewellery. Silver is often valued for its distinct colour, one that differs from the ‘gold’ colour of the gold. Whilst gold’s colour (yellow) is not the only one in the market today, and arguably not even in the most popular one; despite the rise in popularity of white gold, silver has managed to hold its own as a distinct metal type, and its own metal identity. Whilst considered the less pricey alternative, silver commands a distinct appeal, for its cooler, more youthful character. When it comes to the decision to buy silver, a number of factors are in play: personal taste, cost, and time. When it comes to the crafting of fine jewellery, it is important to note that silver is generally not used in its pure. The term ‘sterling silver’ is a term that one may be familiar with: sterling silver, is basically an alloy that contains around 92.5 per cent pure silver, with the rest being other metals, usually copper. Sterling silver jewellery is in high demand for the appeal that silver commands when it comes to high-quality fine jewellery, to the simpler gift items.

Platinum

Platinum, a metal whose very name commands attention and generates the perception of high status. Platinum which is a newer metal addition in the world of precious jewellery, soon developed a strong reputation for its rarity, market value, distinct colour tone(s) (as there are more than one). Hence its natural adoption as a metal of choice in the fine jewellery range. Before one even considers the idea of platinum jewellery, one must contend with the reasons that lead a person to buy platinum: Platinum as noted is a very rare metal, according to the Royal Mint, much of the world’s platinum-which are found in a number of sub-categories, known as the platinum family of metals-are absorbed by the automotive industry. Used in the making of special components. Those which are used in jewellery make up a smaller percentage. However, the demand for platinum jewellery has remained firm, though challenged greatly in recent times with the rise in popularity of white gold.

Rare Precious Metals

In addition to the popular metals like gold, silver and platinum there are a few other metal types that have made their way into the market for fine jewellery. Whilst often used as a supplement for the top metal categories, these new entrants over time have built up a reputation as rare precious metals. Notable here are:

Palladium

Name after the asteroid Pallas, palladium is a wonderful white metal, mined primarily in South Africa and Russia. A question on many people’s minds here would be: is palladium a distinct metal type. The answer is yes and no. Palladium is a part of the platinum group of metals, so it is another variant of the more notable metal type. Owing to the growing industrial significance, with its use in sustainable technology, due to the rare qualities that it contains palladium is popular for industrial factors. In the world of jewellery, palladium has risen as a near-distinct metal category, owing to its distinct whiter, lighter glow. Palladium is generally combined with other rare metals, like gold to make it more applicable for jewellery making.

Rhodium

Rhodium’s popularity in the world of fine jewellery was built on its increasing use as a plating material. Rhodium plated jewels, are increasingly popular owing to the protective qualities they add to gold and silver jewels. Over time rhodium, as a distinct precious metal, whose demand has also been driven by the auto industry. Whilst rhodium is relatively less well known, in terms of value, its market price surpasses that of gold and even the most precious gemstones. Rhodium prices are partly driven by the lack of supply sources, with South Africa leading the way. Rhodium, like palladium, is also part of the platinum family. As a by metal product, rhodium supply and in turn prices are dependent on the supply of platinum. As noted, rhodium in the world of jewellery is primarily used as plating. With precious metals like silver, white gold is the main candidate. Rhodium plating white gold is a very popular option. Given their immense rarity and the difficulty of shaping rhodium in its pure form, pure rhodium jewellery is immensely hard to come by. However, that has not stopped certain jewellery enthusiasts from pursuing them.

Measuring Metal Purity: Karat and Finesse

The karat or finesse of metal measures its purity. When it comes to fine jewellery making, precious metals like gold, platinum and even silver often require the addition of other metals, so in their final form, these often take the form of alloys. The term karat (K) is used to measure the purity of the metal, mainly gold, which is arguably still the most popular metal. Notable the 24 karat gold, 18 karat gold and 14 karat gold variants. With the lower number corresponding to the higher alloy character, with the price point varying accordingly. Finesse is another way of measuring the purity of gold, which is calculated with different numbers. For example, gold that has 75 per cent purity, has a finesse of 750, which corresponds to 18K. For 14K the finesse number is 583, with gold content being 58.3 per cent. With the rest of the percentage being made up by other metals.