What Defines a Fair Cut Diamond?

Closing off our discussion of a diamond cut, we have the Fair cut. Occupying the position on the list just above the Poor cut, Fair cut diamonds are not the best in the business. And generally, not much attention has been given to them. Well, besides on why diamond buyers ought to avoid such diamond cuts.

However there is more to the Fair cut diamonds, and learning about them provides some important clues to understanding the quality of other diamond cuts. In this Education page, we will explain what determines a select carbon-based gemstone to be a Fair cut diamond. As usual, we will begin this analysis with a formulaic overview of what is meant by Diamond cuts and work our way towards the main subject.

What are Diamond Cuts?

Right the first point to consider when it comes to diamond cuts is the terminology. There is much confusion when it comes to how the term ‘cut’ is understood in relation to diamonds and gemstones in general. First off, the term cut in terms of its correct understanding as per the 4Cs of diamonds: which measures the diamond’s clarity, carat, cut and colour, refers to a collection of factors that determines the quality and precision of the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, polish and a number of other factors.

This means ‘the cut’ of the diamond does not refer to the particular shape of the stone: such as the princess, cushion, pear etc. Which are generally understood under the heading of ‘cut’ but in fact refer to the shape of the gemstone. However, it is worth noting that the quality of the cut does come to have an effect on the overall shape of the gemstone.

Diamond Faceting

Moving on, we get to another area of confusion, which pertains to the ‘cut’ or the particular faceting that the gemstone has been subjected to. In the world of gemstones, faceting refers to the particular shaping of the surface of the diamond and comes to affect the overall structure of the diamond. Affecting three key parts of the diamond anatomy. They are:

• Girdle: Which refers to the widest part of the gem that divides the crown from the pavilion.

• Crown: The top of the diamond, which is the most visible part, when viewed vertically it features the table of the diamond.

• Pavilion — This is the lower part of a faceted diamond that sits below the girdle and is a key area which determines the depth of the cut.

When it comes to a diamond cut, the craftsmanship of the gemstone affects these particular areas, with the quality of the diamond cut varying with respect to the precision of the stone. Thus Fair cut diamonds tend to score much lower than the leading Excellent and Very Good cut diamonds according to these measures. So the question now is how exactly the Fair cut diamond is fair with respect to these factors.

What Sets Apart Fair Cut Diamonds?

When it comes to diamond cut quality, the key factor in question is the relationship between light and its interaction with the diamond. Both externally and internally. And the cut of the diamond is meant to maximise the light reflective and refractive effects, with the quality of the cut (i.e. Excellent or Fair) affecting the final outcome. This means the diamond cutter seeks to maximise the gemstone’s interaction with light and seeks to minimize leakage.

In Fair cut diamonds, the cut of the gemstone is such that light that hits the stone exits through the sides and edges of a fair cut diamond. This is due to the poor or “fair” proportions that are found in the Fair cut diamond: where the diamond is cut too deep or too shallow. Which affects the level of light that hits the stone and pass through it, and in turn produces much lower levels of the desired visual effects that diamonds are known for: Fire, Scintillation and Brilliance.

Fire refers to the dispersion of light as hits the stone, and the generation of colours that are present in the visible spectrum. Brilliance is arguably the most notable factor when it comes to diamonds, as the brilliance or the brightness of the stone is a key selling point. And the scintillation which is the unique sparkle that flashes that diamond buyers value. Sad to say, owing to the less defined proportions and lack of great symmetry, the Fair cut diamond scores quite low on each of these key quality factors.

What Factors Give Rise to Fair Cut Diamonds?

A question some of the readers may have at this point, deep into coverage of this area, is why are Fair cut diamonds around in the first place? Since Excellent and Very Cut diamonds are the best in the business (according to GIA), then why give rise to Fair and by the same line, Poor cut diamonds? This is a valid question, for, unlike the clarity and colour, factors which are intrinsic to the gemstone in question, the cut of the diamond is entirely dependent on the skill and intentions of the diamond cutter or the company involved.

The first point to consider is that when it comes to diamond cutting there is also a trade-off between the size of a large carat diamond and a better-cut stone. For example to produce a solid 1.00-carat brilliant cut diamond would require a larger rough diamond: which would be over 2.50 carats. This means in producing a finely cut diamond involves a payoff in terms of the rough stone that is sacrificed to produce it. Sometimes jewellery makers would opt for a larger carat stone for one that is lower cut in terms of quality.

The next factor is the presence of natural inclusions in the gemstone. So this factor connects with another one of the 4Cs. Which is clarity that measures the number and extent of inclusions along with their type. Inclusions affect the light reflective ability of the stone, but also, when present in larger amounts the internal integrity of the diamond. Diamond jewellery makers might seek to bypass it by cutting the gemstone in a certain way. Leading to lower quality grades in terms of its cut.

Should you Opt for Fair Cut Diamonds?

Usually in our Education page discussion lower quality cuts, such as the Poor cut diamond, we try to close it off with an overview of whether such diamonds cut (i.e. those which fall below Excellent and Very Good cut) are worth considering. Following that formula, let us answer that basic question: No.

When it comes to buying a top-quality diamond, such as a gemstone for a worthy engagement ring, the Fair cut is not a great choice. With lack of light reflecting and visible contrasts within the stone give rise to certain dark areas, which don’t look good under magnification or under great lighting conditions.  

At best Fair cut diamonds make decent accent stones, as a cost-saving option for more budget-oriented jewellery.