What is the Brilliant Diamond Cut?

In the world of diamonds and diamond jewellery no diamond cut holds a higher place than the brilliant cut. Technically it is the defining cut of the diamond, and by extension, the gemstone world. Whilst other types of cuts, such as the step, and to some extent the mixed cut, command varying levels of popularity, particularly when it comes to carbon-based gemstones, brilliant cuts, notably in their round brilliant form are the most popular.

In this Education page, we will look at the brilliant diamond cut proper; by focusing mainly on the cut. As often these discussions tend to view the cut (brilliant) in relation to the diamond shape (round). At the end of this study, the reader will have a better understanding of brilliant cut diamonds and what to look for when purchasing them.

The Development of Brilliant Cut Diamonds

Brilliant cut diamonds are the most popular in the world. Leaving aside the specific shape of the diamond, an overwhelming majority of carbon based precious stones in the market are faceted in this particular way. And when one considers the round brilliant cut: which is a diamond shape + particular facet, then that too comes in at a dominating 75 percent of the market for faceted diamonds.

A word on the terminology: when speaking of the brilliant cut, we are not talking about the quality of the cut. That is a specific diamond cut grade that is a component of the 4Cs. The diamond cut grade is measured according to Excellent to Poor cuts. Here our focus is solely on the type of faceting that the diamond is subjected to.

When one speaks of the development of the brilliant cut the story is a bit interesting. At one point an early name for the modern version of the brilliant cut was 'Tolkowsky cut’. Which referred to the Antwerp-based diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky, who is credited with devising the mechanics for cutting the famous 58-facet (including the culet) round diamond. This took place all the way back in 1919.

The faceting of the round brilliant feature a strict breakdown with 33 facets on the important crown above the girdle and 25 facets on the pavilion which lies below the girdle of the cut diamond. The faceting of the diamond is done in such a way as to maximise the brilliance and sparkle of the stone.

Old European Cuts to Modern Brilliant Cut

As far as the actual origins of the brilliant cut are concerned it must be noted that diamonds have been around for some time. And diamond cutting as a practice has been prevalent for hundreds of years, notably in Europe. Today there is some speculation regarding the origins of the brilliant cut. Whilst much of the attention is placed on the round brilliant which dominates the market, the fundamentals of the brilliant cut have been traced to old diamonds from Europe.

With researching indicating that the stylistic fundamentals of the brilliant have proto variants in 15th-century Belgium. Other research points to the works of a 17th Century Venetian lapidary Vincenzio Perruzzi, who is credited to have doubled the number of crown facets from 17 to 33 which is a significant contribution as it paved the way for the modern brilliant cut. 

The real transition took place at the dawn of the 20th Century, as the diamond industry was taking off, with the supply of diamonds going global and with it the demand for new gem quality stones with great light reflective qualities. Thanks to the advances in engineering led to the development of precise diamond-cutting technology that gave us the modern brilliant cut.

The Main Features of Brilliant Diamond Cut

When it comes to diamond cutting: that is the shaping and faceting of a gemstone, this is carried out to enable and enhance the light reflective qualities of the stone. The beauty of a diamond is a function of how well it is able to absorb and reflect light, in line with the core strengths of carbon based stones: they are its fire, brilliance, and scintillation.

The character and importance of the attributes we have engaged in dedicated Education pages, for now, what the reader needs to know is that they are critical to the visual style of the gemstone, and it is up to the cut of the gemstone (diamond) to evoke them.

When it comes to the brilliant diamond cutting, we are dealing with a diamond that features a total of 58 facets, with the distinction most notable in the crown of the diamond. True to its name, the brilliant cut diamond is recognised as the best in the industry in terms of its light reflective qualities. Especially when shaped in a round brilliant cut fashion. The brilliant cut’s popularity is based on its ability to optimally reflect and refract light hits the stone.

Why Brilliant Diamond Cuts are the Best

The key strength of the brilliant cut diamond is its light reflective qualities, which work to enhance the core strengths of diamonds. This has made it the go-to choice when it comes to faceted diamond stones, regardless of shape. These brilliant cut diamonds can be found in a variety of shapes: cushion, princess, and most notably the round brillliant cut.

Brilliant cuts are the most sought-after owing to the dominance of the round brilliant cut variant. Which is the best in class when it comes to light reflectivity, brilliance and sparkle. Whilst it sacrifices a considerable portion of the rough stone, it remains the top diamond cut in the market.

A Word on the Modified Brilliant Cut Diamonds

For those in the market for top quality brilliant cut diamonds may sometimes run into a slightly different variant in the brilliant cut range. Known as the modified brilliant cut. Now it is important that the reader be aware that the focus of our discussion is the core brilliant cut facet. We are not concerned with the secondary shape the brilliant cut gemstone is shaped into. However, in the industry, the overall shape of the gemstone does come to have an effect on the core qualities of the diamond.

In this regard, diamond cuts that have become popular in the world of diamonds, particularly in their use as gemstones in top engagement rings are notable. Among the most popular modified brilliant cut diamonds are the marquise cut, and the oval cut along with more exotic heart-shaped and trillion cut diamonds make up the list. What the reader needs to bear in mind is that these make notable changes to the core diamond stone, but do not change it in a fundamental way as the mixed or step cuts.

Brilliant Diamond Cut Engagement Rings

Right, so with all of that knowledge behind us, the reader might be wondering if the brilliant cut diamond is the best in the business. In a way it is. However, when it comes to purchasing a top-quality diamond for a fine jewel, there are a number of other factors to consider. The 4Cs of diamonds are a critical consideration, along with the jewellery setting, gemstone placement, and the stylistic expectations of the buyer. So the brilliant cut diamond is the way to go, but it is not the only way, especially if you have a different kind of gemstone in mind!