What Sets the Asscher Cut Diamonds Apart from the Rest
Arguably one of the most interesting diamond cuts (or shapes) in the diamond jewellery world is the Asscher cut. Its distinct name distinct visual style, and very history of development, combined with the ever-growing interest in this remarkable diamond cut make it a worthy subject of study.
In this Education page, we learn about the character, history and main features of the Asscher cut diamond. Learn why it is among the more interesting cuts, from its interesting outward shape to the variegated visual effects it produces in the form of a cut gemstone.
What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?
The Asscher cut is one of the distinct cases in the diamond world in that it holds a position as a distinct diamond shape (dimensions, angles etc.) And at the same, it differs from other top diamond cuts in that features a distinct faceting structure: one that differs from the most popular brilliant (cut) faceting that predominates the diamond world.
When one speaks of the step cut, it refers to the certain kind of faceting that the gemstone is subjected to. Highly popular in the world of gemstones renowned for their colour such as sapphires, the step involves the specific arrangement of the facets in the gemstone, which are positioned parallel to one another. Unlike in the brilliant cut, where the diamond is faceted in a way to maximise brilliance. But in the process takes out a lot more of the rough gemstone.
In the world of diamond cutting and faceting the brilliant is known for its high brilliance, recognition and hence the cost. However step cut styles, such as the Asscher cut also feature a host of advantages. For starters, the Asscher cut is the most light-reflective in the step cut range, which it shares with the emerald cut.
The overall style of the Asscher whose origins go back to the early part of the 20th century carries with it the element of time: as a style that is from a different period, but nonetheless, one that is able to integrate elements of the modern, making it vintage style diamond cut.
The Origins of the Asscher Cut Diamond
The origins of the Asscher cut go back to the start of the 20th century. The Asscher family from which the stone’s name is derived pioneered the first design. The aim of this cut was to maximise the presence of the rough stone in a final cut diamond. Which led to an innovation combining elements of the princess cut and emerald cut diamonds.
This diamond cut whilst somewhat popular took some time to take off in the early years, until early of the 1920s when the Art Deco movement started to take off in the Anglo-American world. A period in art which emphasised geometric shapes, bold lines and dimensions that emphasised industry and modern architecture. The Asscher cut with its bold angles and facets resonated strongly with the tastes of the people of this time.
The specific cut was pioneered by the brothers Edward and Joop Asscher, from the same family, who set out to build on their own diamond cuts. This part of the 21st century led to the emergence of the Royal Asscher Cut: a more modern take on a classic cut that improved in key areas. Notable changes include a higher crown with a greater number of facets rising to 74.
Key Features of the Asscher Cut Diamond
If one is to analyse the Asscher cut diamonds, it tends to showcase small tables: which is the surface area of the stone that is visible from the top; and also tends to feature thicker girdles. Arguably the most noticeable visual feature of the Asscher cut diamond is the depth of the pavilion: the lower part of the stone. The greater depth that is characteristic of the Asscher can be viewed as a positive for some but not others.
One notable effect of the greater concentration of diamond carat in the lower part of the stone means it tends to look smaller when viewed from the top, whereas a side on an angle can showcase its look better. This is one of the curious features in the diamond world: where the round brilliant cut often appears the smallest in relation to other cuts when controlling for carat, but the Asscher cut is smaller in relation. Thus needing more rough stones to achieve comparable physical presence.
However in terms of price per carat, the Asscher cut remains the more competitive option, and buyers could expect to spend less in relation to the more popular round brilliant cut. However, this presents a new challenge in that Asscher cut diamonds are relatively rare in the diamond jewellery market. As only a handful of these enters the market each year. A point which shall return to.
When it comes to Asscher cut stones that are available in the market customers generally have to choose between the traditional Asscher cut which features 58 facets against the newer Royal Asscher cut which contains 78 facets.
Factors to Consider when Purchasing Asscher Cut Diamonds
Given the fact that the Asscher cut is a relatively less known addition to the world diamond and importantly diamond engagement rings, where such gemstones find their use, there are a number of grey areas that those interested need to consider.
The most notable factor is the depth of the gemstones. Diamond cut in this fashion characteristically features a higher depth, which produces a distinct effect when viewed individually. And a lot of buyers can be sold on the strength of this feature. However, when it comes to Asscher cut diamonds, generally, the consideration emerges in relation to their use in fine jewellery. Notably in engagement rings, where the higher depth does not always translate into a higher visual presence, as noted earlier. Thus Asscher cut diamond buyers ought not to be drawn in by the high depth of the stone and must pay attention to other factors that make up the 4Cs.
Considering that the Asscher cut is not among the most popular cuts in the diamond world (making up around 2 – 3 per cent) hence new buyers are advised to invest a greater amount of time in picking these gemstones. Well, unless you find a fine jewellery company that is able to provide top-quality stones for a competitive price.
One of the more visual features of the step-cut stone is that its distinct faceting structure makes flaws in the diamond more visible. This is an important consideration considering that, unlike round brilliant cut stones, the angles of the Asscher cut stone showcase them more strongly hence buyers must seek diamonds that score on the clarity scales. Generally VS2 or higher.
Asscher Diamond vs the Emerald Cut Diamond
When it comes to Asscher diamonds there is a tendency to compare them with other popular cuts in the diamond world. Now the comparison with the round brilliant cut is straightforward, some of the key points we have already engaged. The key consideration is that Asserter cuts despite being rarer than a round brilliant cut is cheaper, but are harder to come by, and feature a smaller surface area, despite having greater depth.
When it comes to comparison Asscher cut the main point of comparison is the emerald cut. Both diamond cuts (though the latter is popular in coloured gemstones as well) the diamond are part of the step cut group. Despite their similarities, there are a number of key differences. The most notable difference is the pointed culet of the Asscher, which is unlike the flat one for an emerald cut. This is a factor that makes the Asscher look visually smaller in contrast to the Emerald cut.
In terms of similarities the Asscher cut also features the hall of mirrors effects like the Emerald cut. This is a consequence of the step cuts, where the parallel faceting literally produces a visual effect that is akin to a hall of mirrors, that is visible inside the gemstone. On the downside since the pointed cutlet of this diamond means that a significant part of the stone covers downward, and hence produces a smaller overall look in contrast to the emerald, as in comparison to the round, and indeed in relation to many other cuts.
Another positive is that Asscher cut is known to have relatively greater sparkle when compared to the emerald cut, and is often considered a more high-end option, particularly the Royal Asscher diamond.
The Popularity of the Asscher Cut for Engagement Rings
When it comes to picking an Asscher cut diamond for engagement rings the first thing to consider is that the main reason for opting for this stone is the primary of diamond clarity over diamond brilliance. Clarity is the key consideration that buyers must look for, whilst the natural brilliance of the diamond, in relation to colour (D – Z) are important.
When it comes to picking a top-quality diamond for an engagement ring, it is important to pay attention to the ring setting. The diamond alone, no matter how well cut, with great clarity etc. Will matter little if the ring setting is bad, or is not suitable for the diamond stone in question. For example, when it comes to Asscher cut diamonds one of the advantages is that the stone does not come with any sharp edges. This makes it a more versatile option in contrast to other more exotic cuts like the marquise which require added protection and opens up new ring setting options.
And for those looking for a diamond that maintains a larger percentage of the rough stone during the cutting process means that a larger percentage of the diamond, the Asscher cut is a solid choice. And if you still need more convincing, do you know that celebrities from Elizabeth Taylor, and Jessica Alba, to Pippa Middleton have opted for this rarer diamond cut. So there is your incentive.
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