What are Colourless Diamonds: Why are They Valuable

First things first. When one speaks of colourless diamonds generally what is referred to are, for the lack of a better word, ‘normal’ diamonds. That is to say, diamonds which you and I, and generally anyone who is even familiar with the term diamonds, are technically known as colourless diamonds.

If this sounds a bit confusing, well were are here to explain things. In this Education page, we will learn about the colourless diamonds or ‘diamonds’ proper; what makes them valuable and some information on how they differ from coloured diamonds.

What Makes a Colourless Diamond?

Colourless diamonds are the conventional diamond types that we have come to associate with the term ‘diamond’. They are carbon-based gemstones which only consist of this single element. And technically in their purest form, they should not have other elements within their structure. However often this is not the case as we shall see later. In nature, diamonds begin life as carbon atoms that unite to form a distinct unity known as covalent bonds. This unique carbon structure is what gives diamonds their distinct structure, immense durability and later, upon cutting and polishing, their value.

The diamond formation is a key consideration when understanding the unique character of colourless diamonds. Diamonds form deep within the Earth’s surface and are understood to take anything from tens to hundreds of millions of years to form. Diamond form under extreme conditions of heat and pressure, and during this process other factors, like trace elements, or radiation and changes to the atomic structure of the gemstone often takes place.

These changes affect the purity of the carbon stone’s atomic structure and the manner in which it comes to interact with light. Since colour in nature is a function of light waves and how they interact with particles; the manner in which diamonds absorb certain light waves gives rise to the colourless character of the stone.

So when we speak of colourless diamonds what we are talking about is the non-absorption or the lack of absorption of wavelengths that give rise to colour. This is a function of the unique atomic structure that we mentioned earlier. However, this is not without exceptions.

Colour in Colourless Diamonds

Colourless diamonds or normal diamonds that are have come to dominate the world of gemstone and fine jewellery are valued for their durability, rarity and the natural sparkle and scintillation, which greatly depend on the quality of the cut and polish of the stone. However, the ‘colourless’ character of colourless diamonds is generally not perfect. This is a reflection of the complex geological processes that lead to the development of hardened carbon stones. Where the process of diamond formation is often not perfect: where it is not the sole function of carbon atoms joining together in a specific way, minus the absence of other elements or radiation.

So when it comes to colourless diamonds, the gemstones in their natural state: rough diamond stones that are mined from diamond sources, often come with an array of additions, many undesirable. Most notable is the presence of trace elements, such as nitrogen, which in certain amounts cause changes to the gemstone’s hue. Often producing a range of shades of yellow, to lighter versions of brown.

The value of a diamond or colourless diamonds is a function of its clarity that is partly a function of the transparent character of the stone, with a lack of colour or these light shades of yellow and brown, contributing to the diamond's lustre and value. What buyers are looking for when opting for a natural (colourless) diamond is that it be free of any other shades or tones that can undermine the purity of the colourless gemstone.

Now what is interesting is that these shades of yellow and brown, whilst considered undesirable, open a new avenue in the world of fancy coloured diamonds. Where the actual presence of colour is considered a net positive. But that is a subject for another time.

How are Colourless Diamonds Valued?

Building on the idea of the negative character of colour (such as the light shades of yellow or brown) in colourless diamonds, has led to the classification of colourless diamonds with respect to the lack or absence of these undesirable tones. This standard of diamond colour grades is an important measure in the world of measuring diamond quality.

Diamonds in the colourless range are hence ranked from the least colourless to those which feature a higher or more observable presence of colour. As noted the value of colourless diamonds is determined by the lack of any secondary hues.

Thus we have the D – Z range of colours. Which breakdown into the following:

• D – F Colourless

• G- J Near Colourless

• K – M Faint

• N – R Very Light

• S – Z Light

This classification breaks down further as we get to each individual stone as diamonds which are sold in top gem jewellery companies with respected accreditation. What the customer needs to keep in mind is that the closer the diamond in question is to the near colour and colourless range, the higher its colour quality and in turn its price point.

When it comes to picking a top-quality diamond for a fine jewellery item like an engagement ring, customers are generally recommended to opt for diamonds that are in the K level and above. However diamonds in the K – M range which feature a faint light yellow tone are good options for those who opt for more budget-friendly stone, and they tend to pair well with yellow gold metals.

Lab Grown Diamonds and the Competition from Diamond Alternatives

When speaking of diamonds, the colourless variety, which holds the position as the most popular gemstone in the world. Given the dominance of diamonds, the demand for competing alternatives has grown steadily. Notable here are the lab grown variety, which are technically real diamonds that contain all of the core features of natural diamonds: carbon atoms, identical crystal lattice structure, and external character. However they differ in terms of origins, perceived value and market value. However, the value of lab grown colourless diamonds has grown steadily in recent times with the rise of ethically-minded consumers who view them as a better choice.

White Sapphires and Diamond Simulants

The dominance of colourless diamonds, with respect to their value, beauty and jewellery adoption has spurred alternatives in natural and artificial stones, that go beyond the carbon world. Sapphires which are among the leading coloured gemstones in the world have risen in popularity, and with the rise of white sapphires, they are posing a new challenge to the traditional dominance of diamonds. However white sapphires fall short of colourless diamonds in terms of durability (9.0 vs 10.0 on the Mohs scale) and have lower sparkle, despite being relatively more affordable. Thus white sapphires can function as side stones to complement the value of colourless diamonds.

Diamond simulants such as cubic zirconia (CZ) or moissanite are alternatives for diamonds that have some or many of the core strengths of natural diamonds. These gems, which are artificial or natural depending on the variety, can match the beauty of carbon-based stones in terms of brilliance, scintillation and varying levels of acceptable durability, and make great substitutes. This is why those who opt for natural colourless diamonds look for certification to determine the authenticity of their stone.